Organic and Natural Beauty Products

Europe is currently being caught up in the phenomenon of ‘all things organic.’ While organic cosmetics and personal care products have been around in the U.S. for quite a bit longer, Europe is now riding the wave. This trend follows the success seen in the organic food sector and is fueled by the concerns consumers have regarding health and the environment.

The State of ‘Organic’ Today

While ‘natural’ products emerged many years ago in Europe, it is only in the past few years that ‘organic’ products, that is, products carrying higher levels of certification of authenticity, have started to appear. Most non-mass market launches have been initiated by small independent companies selling through alternative distribution channels, while waiting (and hoping) for traditional markets to catch on. The promise of added benefits, the use of chemical-free ingredients, and in general, a very clinical and prescriptive strategy to products has meant that a technical approach has been taken to cosmetics. For instance, women have been told just how much lip stick they actually consume when they apply product each time and how that might negatively affect their health. A similar approach has been used with deodorants. Consumers are told that each application of most deodorants exposes the user to a particular amount of certain chemicals that carry the risk of long-term health problems. Fact or fiction? No one really knows, but many consumers are beginning to think, “where there’s smoke, there’s fire.”

As a result, organic cosmetics have emerged as alternatives desirable in terms of safer use and benefits delivered that are winning consumers’ attention and sales.

Product Standards & Certification Challenges

The major challenge still facing the entire European market is in the area of product certification and in having a clear definition of what exactly is being certified and what that certification means. The U.K., Italy, France and Germany have very high standards in place for brands receiving organic certification. However, a great deal of confusion still exists among consumers and in their understanding of what constitutes an ‘organic’ product and what exactly is meant by a ‘natural’ designation. The two terms are in fact very different mainly due to the ingredients used. The term natural is not regulated, and has a broad meaning. According to government labeling requirements in the U.S., “natural” means that an ingredient: “has not been significantly altered from it’s original state, nor has anything been removed from it (with the exception of water), nor have other substances been added to it.” In addition to not be regulated or certified in anyway, “natural” products may contain genetically modified organisms (GMOs), be grown with synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. At a product level, the product may also contain many other ingredients which are synthetic or artificial.

In the U.S., organic products are made with ingredients grown without any synthetic chemicals, sewage sludge or GMOs, and are third-party certified. Organic products typically do not contain synthetic ingredients because you cannot certify a synthetic as organic. Products called “natural” often use synthetic preservatives and other un-natural ingredients alongside plant ingredients, and get labeled natural with only few ingredients actually being ‘natural’.

Regardless of definitions, both terms continue to cause confusion as marketers often use them both interchangeably. We are convinced that it will not take too long to clear up the confusion and once this has been clearly defined for the consumer, the market potential for growth will be huge.

Packaging Deserves Attention Too

So far, the packaging of most of this category doesn’t show anything close to the originality of the formulas. Because the organic cosmetics and personal care industry has been in its infancy, product volumes have been relatively small and many of the emerging marketers have been faced with the using off-the-shelf, stock packaging. Or put plainly, they’ve used whatever packaging they have been allowed to get their hands on.

Some of the major names in organic personal care and cosmetics in Europe have clearly defined their identity.They include among others Dr Hauschka, Avea Organic, Sanoflore, Weleda, Spiezia Organics, Athena’s, Neals Yard Remedies and The Organic Pharmacy. In a crowded and noisy market, they deserve full credit for this, but their challenge does not end there.

These and all other emerging brands must continue to convince consumers of the benefits of using organic.What does this mean? It is time to step away from the generic ’organic’ image and redefine what this segment represents.In short, they need to do something creative with their packaging.

Organic brand owners cannot expect to lure consumers with their products simply because they are organic. The majority of the global market has not yet bought into such benefits, so it is time to join the rest of the industry and start creating innovative, attention-grabbing, even edgy packaging.

We know that packaging is the new marketing, as beauty brands sink or swim based on how good their packaging is. For too long, organic brands have been held back by the very constraints placed upon them by packaging suppliers. However, it’s time to change all that. It’s time to make a statement and enhance the benefits of the contents within the pack by making a great first impression on shelf. Organic products should no longer be the poor second cousins where packaging design is concerned. The more that organic product packaging is integrated with non-organic product packaging, the higher the chance of increasing market share and making the entire industry sit up and take extra notice.

There is a plethora of proposed launches of organic personal care/cosmetics in 2005.We have no doubt that we will see greater creativity in their packaging design. Marketers-it’s time to lead the way in this new revolution.